When It Rains
The rains have finally arrived in East Africa and thus for my trip as well. The ‘monsoons’ (no equivalent label in this region) begin in November in Africa south of the equator, but start a little later as you move north. So essentially, I’m following the rains north. I was aware of this from the beginning, and did my best not to take for granted the brilliant weather I had in South Africa and Botswana (which were at the tail-end of their rainy season while I was there), knowing that I would be approaching the rains north of Zimbabwe.
The clear weather on that otherwise hectic bus ride across Zambia and Tanzania was apparently a fluke. Even on my first morning in Dar, the sun was unobstructed and it was painfully hot. It started raining that afternoon though and I can count the number of times it has stopped since. The heat, however, did not let up in Dar and the short, grey periods between rains felt like a steam burn over boiling water.
I didn’t mind so much being cooped up in Dar though, with wireless access at the house and a good chance to catch up on internet dependent business. When I did venture into the city it was through streets that were sometimes beyond ankle-deep. The minibus was more of a hover-craft, with the tires completely submerged on some streets. All pretty routine here though, and the rains were late, so government concerns have been eased by the absolute dumping Tanzania is getting this month.
Probably should have stayed out of Dar a little more in fact: like I said, the place is very seedy with plenty of tricksters and thieves about. Combating robberies was beginning to feel like a game to me at this point though, and I felt confident in my abilities to identify and avoid them. Until, that is, I apparently underwent a temporary lobotomy and decided it was a good idea to get in a car with some guys I hardly knew…when we started to veer away from our destination down a dark street I knew I was in trouble, and my ‘rafiki’ (friend) in front turned around and said: ‘Ok, here’s the thing, we’re not good people…we are mafia.’ Anyway, they took my money and my phone (could have been much worse) and then the ‘mafia’ offered to give me a ride home. I said I’d rather just take my chances on the street and came away unscathed. Even got the license plate number, reported it, but I think the thieves got me pretty good in that game…
Other than that, a very uneventful week in Dar es Salam, and have now arrived in Arusha, Tanzania and enjoying a new abode thanks to my friend Ganga, who has been living and working here for the last four months. I was last in Arusha in December of 2001, at the height of what was apparently a very dry period, and I could hardly recognize the place now as it was more like a bus ride through the jungle to get here.
Next bus is Wednesday to Kampala, Uganda. Plan to lay low here until then; enjoying cooking meals with the folks here and just hangin-out (I realized I hadn’t talked to an American for about a month before Dar, kind of nice). Going to visit the UN-Rwanda tribunal tomorrow though.
The clear weather on that otherwise hectic bus ride across Zambia and Tanzania was apparently a fluke. Even on my first morning in Dar, the sun was unobstructed and it was painfully hot. It started raining that afternoon though and I can count the number of times it has stopped since. The heat, however, did not let up in Dar and the short, grey periods between rains felt like a steam burn over boiling water.
I didn’t mind so much being cooped up in Dar though, with wireless access at the house and a good chance to catch up on internet dependent business. When I did venture into the city it was through streets that were sometimes beyond ankle-deep. The minibus was more of a hover-craft, with the tires completely submerged on some streets. All pretty routine here though, and the rains were late, so government concerns have been eased by the absolute dumping Tanzania is getting this month.
Probably should have stayed out of Dar a little more in fact: like I said, the place is very seedy with plenty of tricksters and thieves about. Combating robberies was beginning to feel like a game to me at this point though, and I felt confident in my abilities to identify and avoid them. Until, that is, I apparently underwent a temporary lobotomy and decided it was a good idea to get in a car with some guys I hardly knew…when we started to veer away from our destination down a dark street I knew I was in trouble, and my ‘rafiki’ (friend) in front turned around and said: ‘Ok, here’s the thing, we’re not good people…we are mafia.’ Anyway, they took my money and my phone (could have been much worse) and then the ‘mafia’ offered to give me a ride home. I said I’d rather just take my chances on the street and came away unscathed. Even got the license plate number, reported it, but I think the thieves got me pretty good in that game…
Other than that, a very uneventful week in Dar es Salam, and have now arrived in Arusha, Tanzania and enjoying a new abode thanks to my friend Ganga, who has been living and working here for the last four months. I was last in Arusha in December of 2001, at the height of what was apparently a very dry period, and I could hardly recognize the place now as it was more like a bus ride through the jungle to get here.
Next bus is Wednesday to Kampala, Uganda. Plan to lay low here until then; enjoying cooking meals with the folks here and just hangin-out (I realized I hadn’t talked to an American for about a month before Dar, kind of nice). Going to visit the UN-Rwanda tribunal tomorrow though.
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